Harsh chemicals dry out your clear coat. Our plant-based oils nourish it.

Clear Coated Paints are not magic and they are fragile:

You will damage your Clear-Coated-Paint when you use many of the solvent based car waxes on the market today. That’s because most commercially available products are made for the way cars used to be painted with a very thick (18-26 mil) color coat directly exposed to the atmosphere. This 'ONE-Stage' paint needed strong solvents and/or abrasives in the wax to remove oxidation, soiling and stains. But most cars built after 1980 have a thin layer (5-7mil) of basic color paint, covered by an even thinner (1-1.5mil) "Clear- Coat" paint. This 'TWO-Stage' paint is easily damaged (burned) from the solvents then (scratched) from the abrasives in ordinary commercial waxes. After spending many hours waxing your car you may have "swirl marks" or "cob-webbing". These are nothing more than patterns of tiny scratches. Some waxes claim to be made for clear coated paint-but they leave a film or residue when dry that is hard to rub off, and, rubbing harshly will add more scratches.

Unfortunately the world's finest waxes will not produce a brilliant shine or lasting protection if applied over dull, oxidized, soiled paint or old wax. Normal washing will not remove oxidized paint, minor swirl marks, old wax, insect tar, acid rain and catalytic converter residue (hydrochloric and sulfuric acids). Proper Pre-Wax Cleaning is necessary to remove these impregnated contaminants and provide a fresh, clean surface to which the wax can adhere.

The difficulty is how to clean the paint safely without using abrasive grit, harsh solvents or destructive Clay Bars. Typical cleaner wax products "scrub" the surface clean with petroleum solvents and compounds which can accelerate paint oxidation and aging.

Paint MUST be cleaned BEFORE it is waxed. If you adhere to the basic following steps, you can almost guarantee success.

Step 1:

Before you wax your car ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS, wash it thoroughly. Any dirt or grit that is on your car's surface will scratch the paint that you are trying to protect. We recommend non-acidic, non-phosphoric, low or no sodium based liquid car washes that claim to do nothing but wash. Be on your guard against multi-function products, there is no replacement for common sense and lots of warm water.

Step 2:

Before you wax your car ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS clean the paint thoroughly. All painted surfaces should be cleaned with a non-abrasive, safe cleaner prior to applying wax. Use oils blended with microscopic cleansers that have natural astringent properties to penetrate and extract trapped dirt, impurities and dead oxidized paint adhering to the primary painted surface. As you apply the pre-wax cleaner it will penetrate and break down everything on the surface of the paint encapsulating grime so it can be easily wiped off without scratching the paint or clear coat. Minor swirl marks and scratches are visually reduced by removing the leading "edge" of the dead paint surrounding the scratch. This robs sunlight of a sharp edge to cause a reflection. The oils will also attach to the released deposits and allow these deposits to be wiped off using a simple terry towel or Microwipe.

Step 3:

Now that you have completely cleaned your paint's surface revealing paint with life and luster, follow with a coat of high quality natural wax to protect and shield the paint. ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS use a non-abrasive, non solvent wax. (The subject for our next article)

For maximum paint protection and shine, gently wax/glaze your paint twice a year (seasonal and geographic adjustments required) and apply a maintenance coat of wax every one to two months.

Remember, Wax degradation cannot be seen. When we think our cars are crying out for attention, we are seeing new paint damage.